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Scott, sporting some new horns.
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Matt donned lots of wamr clothers for night paddling.
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Matt and Scott: 3 Lake Winnipeg: 1 (Entry by Scott and Matt)
(Jul 21st, 2005) Matt: As you see above, we have begun a game with this grand lake known as Lake Winnipeg. We are granting points based on who triumphs over the day (one point per day, unless otherwise warranting tallies). For example, on our first day on the Lake, we successfully made it through some three foot waves (going parallel with them) and landed successfully.

Matt and Scott: 1 Lake Winnipeg: 0

Not two hours after we last updated, Scott woke up to the sound of waves close to our tent, less than two feet away. After hesitating to wake me up (and gratefully choosing to), we flung into action and hauled our tent, packs and canoe up a rung of steps to a homeowners house.

Matt and Scott: 1 Lake Winnipeg: 1

Scott: The great part is I had just explained to Matt how the lake can sometimes develop big waves towards our camp when on the beach (when the wind shifts) but that we didn’t need to worry about it this night as, clearly, the waves were as big as they were going to get. I was wrong.

This lake is the 13th largest lake in the world. And it shows. It’s just huge and scary and exhilarating. The very southern end is a bit developed, but the rest is mostly wilderness with some Annishinabe and Cree settlements. The morning after the lake forced us to higher land, we woke to the surf crashing furiously all over where our tent and gear had been. There was no way to safely launch a canoe, so we hunkered down to wait it out.

A woman had told us of an old canoeist who lived nearby who, while paddling across Canada in the 80’s, got stuck on Lake Winnipeg and never left. I took this opportunity to go find Mr. Edwin Crumpe. I told Matt I’d be back by 2:30. At 3:30, I finally got back and was very pleased to be sporting a brand new hat replete with splendid Viking horns, courtesy of Mr. Crumpe. I’d found him at his ramshackle house where he makes a living carving rocking horses and dinosaurs and other creatures. We chatted for a good while, I gave him a t-shirt, he gave me horns. It was awesome.

Matt: And so after waiting throughout the morning and afternoon, we decided to launch later that evening. We had our second meal of the day at 4 p.m., supper, and packed our bags for some extreme night paddling.

The winds had subsided only slightly, but the drop was enough to not swamp our boat upon launch. Unfortunately, the winds were coming almost parallel to us, and the going was slow.

And so the night wore on. The sun set at 9:30, and around 10, the moon appeared orange over the horizon, lighting our way. We stopped at a boat landing for lunch. At 10:30. I believe only college students can really enjoy the taste of meat and squeeze cheese that late in the evening. By the time we were almost halfway done crossing a large bay, when Scott got confused rounding the point. Now early into the morning, we thought we were two miles north of where we actually were. After doing a complete 360 degree turn trying to decipher our location, we spotted our target, Victoria Beach, far off across the bay.

Thankfully, the northern lights danced above our heads and held our amusement and attention as our minds demanded sleep. Which they got, of course, without the benefit of a tent. We were just too tired to set it up. And besides, we have to go without it once or twice.

Scott: Yes, the white sand beach of Victoria held our sleeping bodies for all of 4 hours, but we did make it, despite paddling rather large waves very late at night for a long ways.

Scott and Matt: 2 Lake Winnipeg: 1

We woke up early, determined to make the most our of good paddling conditions. Our next challenge: a 7 mile open water crossing across Traverse Bay, our longest such crossing of the expedition (hopefully). The wind seemed light and from a favorable direction. Matt had the sail working perfectly and it was picking up just enough wind to help us along. We paddled swiftly out into the great wide open. One hour passed. We sang songs. Two hours passed. We tried to breathe deeply and ignore the feelings of panic, the longing for land and the unmistakable feeling of seasickness (yes this means a feeling of ‘I may well vomit any moment). Three hours passed. We were close. After three and a half hours, we landed the canoe and fell onto shore. Then we crammed lunch into our faces. Scott took a nap on top of the loaded canoe (the only place available). We remarked on our very-wildernessy surroundings. And we rejoiced that we shall never ever again have to do such a thing.

Scott and Matt: 3 Lake Winnipeg: 1

Matt: And so, after landing to camp today, we paddled 17 of the last 24 hours, starting at 5:30 Wednesday, only sleeping, as Scott mentioned, from 3 to 7:30 a.m. And after all that, my body feels as though Lake Winnipeg’s waves are rocking it, even as I type these words.

Scott: Last but not least, we are currently camped in a Spruce and Tamarack Bog, 4 feet above the shimmering lake. It’s marvelous. Tomorrow is supposed to be good for paddling and we are getting close to Hecla Provincial Park; the lake narrows up and there’s lots of islands. Very exciting. Good night all!

We’d like to thank two sponsors. First we’d like to thank Cache Lake Foods for the wonderful food they’ve given to us. Cache Lake is out of Bemidji and Bob and Billie are friends of the Port family. They also make excellent canoe/backpacking food. Yesterday we had their delicious biscuits and gravy for breakfast and tonight we had pizza bread to go along with our spaghetti. We also enjoy the Wild Rice Salad for lunch now and then and the Cheesy Sweet Potatoes as a snack.

We’d also like to thank MSR, as they gave us a great deal on our Dragonfly stoves. We use one and have one as back up, but we haven’t needed the back-up. The stove is easy to use, powerful and efficient.